Toolpost Grinder Notes
This grinder was built from an article in Home Shop Machinist, Jan/Feb
and Mar/Apr 1999 issues. Reprints are available from Village
Press. I strongly recommend that builders of this
grinder get the article. It contains a lot of useful text as well as pictures,
diagrams and parts listings.
I made some changes, for example:
I made the block taller than the one in the article because my compound-to-spindle
distance is greater. I just made it tall enough that the spindle would
be in the center of the block. This isn't critical, though.
I didn't drill the holes in the shaft for the spanner because I didn't
want to make the spanner. Instead I milled a pair of flats on the shaft
so I can use an end wrench.
The shaft for the wheel guard, as shown, doesn't allow removal of the
guard without first removing the wheel. Awkward - I milled it further out
to eliminate the problem.
I didn't use 7075 like the author, 6061 is easier to find in scrap
yards. Works fine. I didn't round over the edges, either - a matter of
I didn't get much help from the Brecoflex people when I tried to order
the belt, so I got the alternative belt from Advanced Belt Technology.
The manufacturer referred me to a distributor in my area. It cost about
I got a Makita trim router, as the author had, but mine doesn't spin
as fast; so
I changed the pulley ratios proportionally to give the specified spindle
One caution: when making the final cuts for the bearings, with the
boring head in the lathe chuck, make a cut about .010" undersize and
then cut it again without adjusting the boring head. You'll find the second
cut takes out at least .005" - because of springiness in those small
boring bars. I bored my holes too big and had to use .002 brass shim stock.
It works but it's not elegant (it looks right but *I* know the shim is
I didn't find I needed to use a dead center in the tailstock like the
author, my live center has no play I can discern.
When turning the spindle I didn't use a faceplate and dead center.
Instead, I chucked a piece of 1/2" drill rod in the 3-jaw chuck, then
set the compound to 30 degrees and cut the 60 degree center myself. As
long as the center is recut every time it's rechucked, this gives perfect
centering. A lathe dog on the workpiece engaged the flat side of one of
the chuck jaws nicely.
Have fun! It's a good project.
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